Extreme Northern James

November 13, 2020 This is a story of my trip to the land of two nations, the Ingush and the Ossetians, who hate one another.  They are neighbours, and to the uninformed, would perhaps be indistinguishable.  During a three-day weekend, I went to both republics, officially called the Republic of Ingushetia and the Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, to see what life was like- as well as to hear some grievances. The North Caucasus mountains Originally it had been my goal to go to Ingushetia, which was a follow-up after my trip to Chechnya.  The Chechens and Ingush are both Vainakh people, and share much in common; their languages are mutually intelligible, they are both Muslim, and are both mountain people.  Calling a tour company before my flight, I asked about going into the mountains, but was told that I needed a pass from the FSB  (the Russian FBI) as I was a foreigner, and the mountains of Ingushetia are located within a podgranichniy zon  or secured border...

October 2, 2020 Chechnya.  The name conjures up different ideas and emotions for many people.  For many Americans, the only thing connected to the name of this small southern republic is terrorism, and for many Russians, the same thought arises, only a thousand times more bitter, that bitterness burned into their psyche. While only a three-day weekend, this was a big trip for me.  The mental aspect was similar to my first trip to Dagestan, with thoughts of what could go wrong flashing through my mind, even waking me up at night days before the flight as I wondered if this was a bad decision.  I had read articles about travel to Chechnya, which said it is now safe and there is nothing to worry about, but the U.S. Department of State website says otherwise, claiming that there is still the chance of terrorism and kidnapping.  As in Dagestan, I knew I would stand out, even with a full beard; I do not have the complexion or hairstyle of a Chechen.  The last thi...